Time Traveling Table

This soup was way different than the tortilla soup I’m used to, and honestly, that was part of the fun. The tortilla soups I’ve had before tend to be loaded with toppings and packed with spice. They’re hearty enough to be the whole meal. This one felt much lighter.

The broth was clean and bright, and the flavors were simple in a really good way. The tomatoes, chiles, tortillas, crema, and cheese all had room to do their thing without competing with each other. Instead of reaching for a giant glass of water afterward to hydrate after all that sodium, this was the kind of soup that actually felt genuinely hydrating.

That actually fits the time period pretty well. In 1910 Mexico, soups often played an important role at the table, especially in middle-class households. They were a practical way to stretch ingredients, use up day-old tortillas, and start a meal with something warm and filling. What might seem simple today would have been an everyday example of making the most of what was available.

More than a century later, sopa de tortilla is still around, though many modern versions have become richer and heavier. This historical version offers a glimpse into an earlier style of cooking where a few good ingredients were all you needed to make something memorable.

Yield: 6 servings

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Total Time: 55 minutes

Ingredients

Broth Base

• 2.25 L chicken broth (9 cups)
• 680 g Roma tomatoes (about 6 medium tomatoes)
• 2 dried pasilla chiles (or 1 pasilla and 1 ancho chile)
• 150 g white onion (1 medium onion)
• 3 garlic cloves
• 30 ml manteca (lard) or neutral oil (2 tbsp)
• 10 g salt (2 tsp, or to taste)
• 1–2 sprigs epazote (optional)

Tortilla Component

• 12 corn tortillas, preferably day-old
• 120 ml manteca (lard) or oil (½ cup), for frying

Garnishes

• 200 g queso fresco, crumbled (7 oz)
• 240 ml Mexican crema (1 cup)
• 2 avocados, sliced
• Lime wedges, for serving

Instructions

1. Slice the tortillas into thin strips.
2. Heat the manteca or oil in a skillet over medium heat. Fry the tortilla strips until crisp and golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
3. Roast the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and pasilla chiles on a comal, cast iron skillet, or heavy pan until softened and lightly charred.
4. Transfer the roasted vegetables and chiles to a blender. Add the salt and blend until mostly smooth.
5. Heat 30 ml (2 tbsp) manteca or oil in a large pot. Add the blended tomato mixture and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Pour in the chicken broth and add the epazote, if using.
7. Bring the soup to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt as needed.
8. Divide the fried tortilla strips among serving bowls.
9. Ladle the hot broth over the tortilla strips.
10. Top with queso fresco, crema, avocado slices, and lime wedges. Serve immediately.